Tessa Edwards’ Autumn/Winter 2011-12 collection began with ancient Egyptian rituals and preserving the body and soul for the afterlife. These themes have developed and have lead to a subsequent focus on mirroring, distortion and texture.
These rituals have influenced oversized pleated skirts and long leather tabards as worn by the High Priests. The tabards form the base for all of the shapes in the collection, elongating the silhouette up to the neck. Whilst faux-fur has been padded, wrapped and bound around the body, revealing glimpses of flesh-toned leather, net and chiffon. Red is also dominant throughout the collection, paralleling the ancient texts used in burial ceremonies. Whilst the shoes follow the same schematic qualities of this script and viewed in profile the foot is elevated on a structural plinth.
Like past seasons, jewelry plays a foremost role in this collection. Swarovski crystals have been placed in glass lenses hand-blown by Glass Sculptor Anthony Scala; their dome-shape magnifies and distorts the crystals from their original form. Once set in gold plated beds, they have been used as body wear, hung from the neck, tied around the waist and strapped to the arm. This concept of magnification and distortion continues through into the garments: hologram suits and dress coats have been melted into tailored shapes, with crystals embedded in between the layers of fabric.